[{"data":1,"prerenderedAt":258},["ShallowReactive",2],{"content-\u002Fzh\u002Fblog\u002Flife\u002Fmalaysia-penang":3,"content-query-E5HIcGhxmE":157},{"_path":4,"_dir":5,"_draft":6,"_partial":6,"_locale":7,"title":8,"description":9,"enName":10,"publishedAt":11,"tags":12,"body":14,"_type":151,"_id":152,"_source":153,"_file":154,"_stem":155,"_extension":156},"\u002Fzh\u002Fblog\u002Flife\u002Fmalaysia-penang","life",false,"","马来西亚槟城之行","一个多元种族融合的旅行地","Malaysia-Penang","2026-04-08",[13],"生活",{"type":15,"children":16,"toc":148},"root",[17,26,33,38,43,48,53,58,63,68,73,78,83,88,93,98,103,108,113,118,123,128,133,138,143],{"type":18,"tag":19,"props":20,"children":25},"element","markdown-image",{"alt":10,"folder":21,"img-type":22,"img-width":23,"src":24},"blog","jpg","100%","Malaysia-Penang\u002Fpenang-hill",[],{"type":18,"tag":27,"props":28,"children":29},"p",{},[30],{"type":31,"value":32},"text","从安莎娜直落巴巷度假村打车回 Gurney Plaza 的路上，我们准备买些伴手礼带回上海。来接我们的 Grab 司机是位年过半百的马来西亚华人，车内整洁，用不太流利的中文和我们有一搭没一搭地聊着。",{"type":18,"tag":27,"props":34,"children":35},{},[36],{"type":31,"value":37},"“你们为什么选择来槟城玩？”他好奇地问。",{"type":18,"tag":27,"props":39,"children":40},{},[41],{"type":31,"value":42},"“我有三个同事都推荐了槟城，”糯糯回答，“一位德国同事甚至卖掉了德国的房子，来这里买房养老。他觉得槟城国际化、环境好、生活悠闲。还有两位中国同事说，这里既能体验出国感，又没有语言障碍，物价也实惠。”",{"type":18,"tag":27,"props":44,"children":45},{},[46],{"type":31,"value":47},"司机点点头，又有些急切地问：“那你们这几天对槟城的印象怎么样？”",{"type":18,"tag":27,"props":49,"children":50},{},[51],{"type":31,"value":52},"我是福建人，来槟城有种熟悉的感觉。“前天我们去升旗山，在山顶集市一个穆斯林摊位吃到的海鲜炒粉，味道和我家里很像。更深的印象是在升旗山那个小集市，能看到多个宗教和族群的人——欧美、华人、印度面孔的徒步者，包着黑色头纱的穆斯林女性。山顶既有色彩浓烈的印度寺庙，也有白墙极简的尖顶清真寺，还有佛教的极乐寺、观音寺，以及山下的宗族祠堂。这种多元性在其他徒步路线里很少见。”",{"type":18,"tag":19,"props":54,"children":57},{"alt":55,"folder":21,"img-type":22,"img-width":23,"src":56},"longshantang","Malaysia-Penang\u002Flongshantang",[],{"type":18,"tag":27,"props":59,"children":60},{},[61],{"type":31,"value":62},"“你们去了升旗山啊，我家也在那边。”司机说，“马来西亚最大的几个种族包括华人、印度裔和马来人。东部还有伊班人、卡达山人、杜顺人等原住民。各族生活习惯不同——印度人不吃牛肉，回民、穆斯林不吃猪肉，很多信佛的华人也不吃牛肉。为了不触碰禁忌，山顶集市主要卖清真餐食。”",{"type":18,"tag":27,"props":64,"children":65},{},[66],{"type":31,"value":67},"“难怪山上看到的都是海鲜粉面。”糯糯补充道。",{"type":18,"tag":27,"props":69,"children":70},{},[71],{"type":31,"value":72},"司机笑了：“很开心你们观察到这些。我觉得各族人民本来可以融洽相处，只是政客为了自己和集团的利益在挑拨离间。你们喜欢升旗山的徒步吗？”",{"type":18,"tag":27,"props":74,"children":75},{},[76],{"type":31,"value":77},"“很喜欢这里的雨林徒步，”我说，“我们去爬了升旗山和国家森林公园。周围很自然，高耸入云的树木，林间能看到各种动物——猴子、大松鼠小松鼠、雨林巨蜥，还有马陆、蜈蚣、巨型弓背蚁……很多动物的名字还是去了 Entopia 昆虫公园才知道的。”",{"type":18,"tag":19,"props":79,"children":82},{"alt":80,"folder":21,"img-type":22,"img-width":23,"src":81},"entopia","Malaysia-Penang\u002Fentopia",[],{"type":18,"tag":27,"props":84,"children":85},{},[86],{"type":31,"value":87},"“真开心你们有这些难得的体验。对槟城有什么建议吗？我可以反馈给领导，提升大家的游玩体验。”司机很真诚地问。",{"type":18,"tag":27,"props":89,"children":90},{},[91],{"type":31,"value":92},"“第一个是过马路太难，”糯糯说，“经常走很久都看不到斑马线，车和摩托车开得飞快。另一个是很多人想来citywalk，但街道两旁光秃秃的，没有行道树遮阴。一些骑楼本来可以遮阳，却被商家私自占用，或者两旁停满车，没法走。”",{"type":18,"tag":27,"props":94,"children":95},{},[96],{"type":31,"value":97},"“这确实是需要改进的地方。”司机说，“槟城很多道路是为有车的居民设计的，现在游客多了，确实要多考虑。”",{"type":18,"tag":27,"props":99,"children":100},{},[101],{"type":31,"value":102},"“不过我们也发现很多商家接入了 Alipay ，对我们太方便了。在国内我们早就不用现金了，带信用卡又担心盗刷。槟城的美食也很惊艳，我们在森林公园一个不起眼的庙里连吃了三顿——清蒸鲳鱼、烤魔鬼鱼、海鲜米粉，味道都很棒！”说着，我们问道，“你有回国内玩过吗？”",{"type":18,"tag":27,"props":104,"children":105},{},[106],{"type":31,"value":107},"“我是这里的第三代，上一辈从（厦门）同安来的，我还没回去过，听说同安的发展已经比槟城好了，一直也想回去看看。不过我更喜欢历史文化，所以如果回去，第一个想去南京，看看大屠杀纪念馆——我朋友去过，被深深震撼了。其他还有西安和北京。我还想坐高铁，听说国内发展很快，高铁又稳又快，很想坐北京到上海那条线。”",{"type":18,"tag":27,"props":109,"children":110},{},[111],{"type":31,"value":112},"“你的孩子们呢？他们想去吗？”我们问。",{"type":18,"tag":27,"props":114,"children":115},{},[116],{"type":31,"value":117},"“想去，不过他们想去重庆，看地铁穿楼和绕来绕去的路。他们天天用小红书、抖音。”",{"type":18,"tag":27,"props":119,"children":120},{},[121],{"type":31,"value":122},"说话间，车开到了 Andaman Island 这个在建的人工岛，前方就是 Gurney Plaza 的来福士。“小时候这一片都是沙滩。槟城地小，需要填海造地，我也理解商人要做生意。现在这里发展很快，可能下次你们来又是一番新景象了。”",{"type":18,"tag":27,"props":124,"children":125},{},[126],{"type":31,"value":127},"我点点头，想起前两天坐的一位马来族裔 Grab 司机，年纪与这个司机相仿。他说：“小时候这一片都是沙滩，我经常在沙滩边玩。人类破坏了环境，这里下雨越来越少了。”言语间略微有些伤感。",{"type":18,"tag":27,"props":129,"children":130},{},[131],{"type":31,"value":132},"我不知道如何评价两位司机的看法。但这几天的居住让我体验到，以华人为主的 Gurney Beach 一带发展迅速，高楼商超欣欣向荣，海滩边跑步路段平整，港口游艇酒吧一一俱全；而马来原著民居多的 Teluk Bahang 那边自然原始，昆虫馆、香料园、居民低矮房屋与国家森林公园很好地融合在一起。我想，维持这样一种巧妙的平衡也不错。",{"type":18,"tag":27,"props":134,"children":135},{},[136],{"type":31,"value":137},"这大概也能回答糯糯问我的问题：更喜欢 Gurney Bay 还是 Teluk Bahang？",{"type":18,"tag":19,"props":139,"children":142},{"alt":140,"folder":21,"img-type":22,"img-width":23,"src":141},"teluk-bahang-sunset","Malaysia-Penang\u002Fteluk-bahang-sunset",[],{"type":18,"tag":19,"props":144,"children":147},{"alt":145,"folder":21,"img-type":22,"img-width":23,"src":146},"teluk-bahang","Malaysia-Penang\u002Fteluk-bahang",[],{"title":7,"searchDepth":149,"depth":149,"links":150},2,[],"markdown","content:zh:blog:4.Life:Malaysia-Penang.md","content","zh\u002Fblog\u002F4.Life\u002FMalaysia-Penang.md","zh\u002Fblog\u002F4.Life\u002FMalaysia-Penang","md",{"_path":4,"_dir":5,"_draft":6,"_partial":6,"_locale":7,"title":8,"description":9,"enName":10,"publishedAt":11,"tags":158,"body":159,"_type":151,"_id":152,"_source":153,"_file":154,"_stem":155,"_extension":156},[13],{"type":15,"children":160,"toc":256},[161,164,168,172,176,180,184,187,191,195,199,203,206,210,214,218,222,226,230,234,238,242,246,250,253],{"type":18,"tag":19,"props":162,"children":163},{"alt":10,"folder":21,"img-type":22,"img-width":23,"src":24},[],{"type":18,"tag":27,"props":165,"children":166},{},[167],{"type":31,"value":32},{"type":18,"tag":27,"props":169,"children":170},{},[171],{"type":31,"value":37},{"type":18,"tag":27,"props":173,"children":174},{},[175],{"type":31,"value":42},{"type":18,"tag":27,"props":177,"children":178},{},[179],{"type":31,"value":47},{"type":18,"tag":27,"props":181,"children":182},{},[183],{"type":31,"value":52},{"type":18,"tag":19,"props":185,"children":186},{"alt":55,"folder":21,"img-type":22,"img-width":23,"src":56},[],{"type":18,"tag":27,"props":188,"children":189},{},[190],{"type":31,"value":62},{"type":18,"tag":27,"props":192,"children":193},{},[194],{"type":31,"value":67},{"type":18,"tag":27,"props":196,"children":197},{},[198],{"type":31,"value":72},{"type":18,"tag":27,"props":200,"children":201},{},[202],{"type":31,"value":77},{"type":18,"tag":19,"props":204,"children":205},{"alt":80,"folder":21,"img-type":22,"img-width":23,"src":81},[],{"type":18,"tag":27,"props":207,"children":208},{},[209],{"type":31,"value":87},{"type":18,"tag":27,"props":211,"children":212},{},[213],{"type":31,"value":92},{"type":18,"tag":27,"props":215,"children":216},{},[217],{"type":31,"value":97},{"type":18,"tag":27,"props":219,"children":220},{},[221],{"type":31,"value":102},{"type":18,"tag":27,"props":223,"children":224},{},[225],{"type":31,"value":107},{"type":18,"tag":27,"props":227,"children":228},{},[229],{"type":31,"value":112},{"type":18,"tag":27,"props":231,"children":232},{},[233],{"type":31,"value":117},{"type":18,"tag":27,"props":235,"children":236},{},[237],{"type":31,"value":122},{"type":18,"tag":27,"props":239,"children":240},{},[241],{"type":31,"value":127},{"type":18,"tag":27,"props":243,"children":244},{},[245],{"type":31,"value":132},{"type":18,"tag":27,"props":247,"children":248},{},[249],{"type":31,"value":137},{"type":18,"tag":19,"props":251,"children":252},{"alt":140,"folder":21,"img-type":22,"img-width":23,"src":141},[],{"type":18,"tag":19,"props":254,"children":255},{"alt":145,"folder":21,"img-type":22,"img-width":23,"src":146},[],{"title":7,"searchDepth":149,"depth":149,"links":257},[],1775744443237]